What causes ocean currents? The short answer
Ocean currents are huge, steady flows of seawater that follow set paths, a bit like rivers inside the ocean.1011 Three main things drive them:12
- Wind drives the surface currents. Steady winds drag the top layer of the sea along, and Earth's spin bends the moving water into giant loops called gyres.812
- Differences in temperature and salt drive the deep currents. Cold, salty water is heavy, so it sinks near the poles and creeps along the seafloor. This is called thermohaline circulation ("thermo" = heat, "haline" = salt).513
- Tides make tidal currents that flow in and out of bays and along coasts.2
Earth's rotation and the shape of the continents and seafloor steer all of these currents.114 Storms and undersea earthquakes can also set off short, powerful currents.1
The bath toys that mapped the sea
On 10 January 1992, a storm in the North Pacific knocked shipping containers off a cargo ship sailing from Asia to the United States. One container burst open and spilled 28,800 plastic bath toys: yellow ducks, blue turtles, red beavers and green frogs.2526 In November 1992, about ten months later, the first toys washed up near Sitka, Alaska, about 3,200 km (2,000 miles) from the spill.2527
Oceanographers Curtis Ebbesmeyer and James Ingraham used the toys as free science tools. Every toy a beachcomber reported was a data point they could use to test a computer model of the North Pacific's surface currents.2528 Some toys circled the North Pacific. Others drifted north through the Bering Strait and froze into Arctic sea ice. Years later, toys were reported on the Atlantic side, in Maine and the UK.2527 (Not every sighting was a real 1992 toy, but the big picture held up: the oceans are all connected.)
How are surface currents formed? Wind and a spinning Earth
When wind blows across the sea, friction drags the top layer of water along.12 Winds drive currents in roughly the top 100 metres (330 feet) of the ocean. Below that, the wind's push fades away.59
The winds that matter most are the steady ones that blow almost all year. The trade winds blow toward the equator from the east, and sailing ships have used them for centuries to cross between Europe and the Americas. Farther from the equator, the westerlies blow the other way.7 Read more in what causes wind.
Earth's rotation bends anything moving over long distances, including water, to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere. This is the Coriolis effect.612 Put it together: the trade winds push water west, the spin turns it toward the pole, the westerlies push it back east, and the continents block it. The water ends up going round and round an ocean basin in a gyre.11
- Gyres turn clockwise in the Northern Hemisphere and counterclockwise in the Southern Hemisphere.8
- There are five major gyres: the North and South Pacific, the North and South Atlantic, and the Indian Ocean gyres.3
- Gyres are thousands of miles across.14 Their fastest part is a narrow current on the west side, such as the Gulf Stream or the Kuroshio, which can flow faster than 5 mph (2.5 m/s).14
What causes deep ocean currents? The global conveyor belt
Deep currents flow thousands of metres below the surface, far from any wind. They are driven by density, meaning how heavy a given amount of water is. Colder water and saltier water are both heavier.516
- Near the poles, seawater gets so cold that sea ice forms.
- When seawater freezes, the salt is left behind, so the water under the ice gets saltier as well as colder.513
- This cold, salty water is heavier than the water around it, so it sinks to the bottom. Surface water flows in to take its place, which keeps the current going.5
- The deep water spreads south through the Atlantic, around Antarctica (where more water sinks), and into the Indian and Pacific Oceans. There it slowly warms, rises to the surface (upwelling), and loops back.13
This worldwide loop is called the global conveyor belt. It crawls along at just a few centimetres per second, and a single cubic metre of water takes about 1,000 years to go all the way round.1315 Even so, it moves more than 100 times the flow of the Amazon River.13 Salt is a big part of the story: find out why the ocean is salty.
Types of ocean currents
Currents are different from waves. A wave moves energy through the water while the water itself mostly goes round in circles. A current actually carries the water, and anything floating in it, from place to place. See what causes waves.
Beach safety: rip currents. Near the shore, a
rip current is a narrow, fast channel of water flowing away from the beach, strong enough to pull swimmers out to sea. Swim near a lifeguard. If a rip pulls you out, don't fight it: stay calm and float, wave and call for help, or swim
parallel to the shore until you are free, then swim back at an angle.
2930 Tidal currents near coasts come from the rise and fall of the sea: see
what causes tides.
How do ocean currents affect climate?
The tropics get about twice as much sunlight as the poles.20 Ocean currents, together with winds, move a huge amount of that heat toward the poles: warm water flows poleward and cold water flows back toward the equator.220
- The Gulf Stream carries warm water from the Gulf of Mexico up the US east coast and across the Atlantic toward Europe.8 NOAA notes that it helps give Bergen, Norway, milder winters than New York, which is much farther south.2 Some climate scientists argue that the atmosphere, and the heat the ocean stores up in summer, explain more of Europe's mild winters than the current does. How big each part is remains debated.17
- El Niño. Normally the Pacific trade winds push warm surface water west toward Asia, and cold water wells up off South America. Every two to seven years the trade winds weaken and the warm water sloshes back east. That shifts the jet stream and changes rain, drought and storms around the world, and La Niña does roughly the opposite.21
- The Atlantic conveyor (AMOC). The Atlantic part of the conveyor belt carries warmth north. Fresh water from melting ice is lighter than salty water, so it could slow the sinking that drives it.19 Research suggests the AMOC has weakened over the past century, but continuous measurements only began in 2004, and scientists say it is still uncertain how it will change in the future.1518 Read more in what causes climate change.
The heat map in the explainer is a simplified picture that shows the idea, not measured temperatures. Speeds and shapes in all the toys are simplified too.
How do ocean currents affect fish?
Upwelling feeds the ocean. Along some coasts, the wind pushes surface water out to sea, and colder water rises from below to replace it. That deep water is rich in nutrients, which "fertilize" the sunlit surface.22 Tiny drifting plants (phytoplankton) bloom, and they are the base of a food chain that runs through small fish to bigger fish, seabirds and whales. That's why good fishing grounds are usually found where upwelling is common.2213
When upwelling stops, life suffers. During El Niño, upwelling off South America weakens or stops, fewer phytoplankton grow, and that affects the fish that eat them and everything that eats fish.21 Places where cold and warm currents meet are often crowded with life, and fishing fleets use current maps to find schools of fish.14
Animals ride currents, too. Currents carry food to animals that stay in one place, and carry eggs and young animals to new homes.11 Young loggerhead sea turtles spend their first 7 to 15 years out in the open ocean, and some cross the whole Pacific.23 Baby eels hatch in the Sargasso Sea and drift on the Gulf Stream to the coasts of America and Europe.24 Find out more in how do eels reproduce.
Common myths about ocean currents
"Currents are just big waves or tides." Waves move energy while the water mostly stays put. Currents actually carry water, and anything floating in it, over long distances.
210
"Currents flow in a straight line with the wind." Earth's spin bends them, right in the north and left in the south, and the continents block them, so they loop around in gyres.
68
"The deep ocean is still." Deep water moves too, just slowly: a few centimetres a second, about 1,000 years per trip round the conveyor.
13
"The Gulf Stream alone keeps Europe warm." It helps, but winds and the ocean's stored summer heat matter a lot too, and scientists debate how much each one contributes.
217
"The ocean conveyor is about to switch off." Scientists see signs it may be weakening and are watching it closely, but how it will change in the future is uncertain.
1518
FAQ
What are the main causes of ocean currents?
Three main things: wind, which drives currents at and near the surface; differences in water density caused by temperature and salt (thermohaline circulation), which drive deep currents; and tides, which make tidal currents near coasts. Earth's spin and the shape of the continents steer where the currents go.
What is the main cause of deep ocean currents?
Differences in density. Near Greenland and Antarctica, seawater gets very cold, and when sea ice forms it leaves its salt behind. The cold, salty water is heavier than the water around it, so it sinks and spreads along the seafloor. This drives the slow global conveyor belt.
How are ocean currents formed?
Surface currents form when steady winds drag the top layer of the sea along. Earth's rotation bends the moving water (the Coriolis effect), and continents block it, so the water loops around whole ocean basins in giant circles called gyres. Deep currents form where cold, salty water sinks.
How do ocean currents affect climate?
They carry heat. Warm currents move heat from the tropics toward the poles and cold currents flow back. The Gulf Stream helps give northwest Europe milder winters than places at the same latitude across the Atlantic (scientists still debate how much of that is the ocean and how much is the atmosphere). Changes like El Niño shift rain and storms around the world.
How do ocean currents affect fish?
Currents bring food. Where wind pushes surface water away from a coast, cold, nutrient-rich water rises from below (upwelling). The nutrients feed plankton, which feed fish, seabirds and whales, so many of the best fishing grounds are in upwelling zones. Currents also carry fish eggs, baby eels and young sea turtles to new places.
What would happen if there were no ocean currents?
Heat would stay where the Sun delivers it, so the tropics would be hotter and the high latitudes colder. Deep nutrients would rise far less often, so there would be less plankton and fewer fish. Scientists study even a partial slowdown of the Atlantic currents because it could change weather patterns.
Where are the strongest ocean currents?
The fastest non-tidal currents are the narrow 'western boundary currents' on the west side of the big gyres, such as the Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic, the Kuroshio off Japan and the Agulhas off southern Africa. They can flow faster than five miles per hour. Some tidal currents near coasts are even faster.
Sources
- NOAA Ocean Exploration, What causes ocean currents?
- NOAA Ocean Service, What is a current?
- NOAA Ocean Service, What is a gyre?
- NOAA Ocean Service, How fast is the Gulf Stream?
- NOAA Ocean Service, Currents tutorial: Thermohaline circulation
- NOAA Ocean Service, Currents tutorial: The Coriolis effect
- NOAA Ocean Service, Currents tutorial: Global wind patterns
- NOAA Ocean Service, Currents tutorial: Gyres and boundary currents
- NOAA Ocean Service, Currents tutorial: The Ekman spiral
- Smithsonian Ocean, Ocean currents: motion in the ocean
- National Geographic Education, Ocean currents
- Smithsonian Ocean, Currents, waves, and tides
- NOAA Ocean Service, Currents tutorial: The global conveyor belt
- Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Currents, gyres and eddies
- NOAA Ocean Service, What is the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation?
- NOAA Ocean Service, What is the global ocean conveyor belt?
- Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory (Columbia University), R. Seager: The Gulf Stream, European climate and abrupt change
- Met Office, What is the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation?
- Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, AMOC: the Atlantic Ocean's conveyor belt
- NASA Earth Observatory, The ocean and climate
- NOAA Ocean Service, What are El Niño and La Niña?
- NOAA Ocean Service, What is upwelling?
- NOAA Fisheries, Loggerhead turtle
- Smithsonian Ocean, The origin of eels
- Wikipedia, The 1992 bath-toy spill (with references to Ebbesmeyer & Ingraham)
- NPR, When 28,800 bath toys are lost at sea (2011)
- SEOS (EU science education project), Tale of the bathtub toys
- C. Ebbesmeyer & E. Scigliano, Flotsametrics and the Floating World, Smithsonian Books, 2009
- NOAA National Weather Service, Rip current safety
- United States Lifesaving Association, Rip currents